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Vol 47 | Num 21 | Sep 21, 2022

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The Galley

Article by Christine Budd

Oyster Stew

Ingredients:
4 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
1 small onion chopped
1 small bell pepper, chopped. Use jalapenos for a spicier version
1 stalk celery chopped
1 tablespoon Cajun seasonings
2 cups milk
1/4 cup oyster liquor reserved from the shucked oysters
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/4 cup chopped green onions
3 cloves garlic minced
Dash of hot sauce
2 dozen oysters shucked and drained (you can use canned oysters)
For Serving: Extra chopped parsley pads of butter (optional), chili flake, extra hot sauce, soda crackers or oyster crackers

Directions:
Melt 1/4 cup butter in a large pan or pot over medium high heat. Stir in the flour to make the roux. Stir constantly for 5 minutes to make a blonde roux, which is light brown in color.
Stir in the onion, peppers and celery. Cook for 2 minutes.
Stir in the milk, oyster liquor, Cajun seasonings and salt and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring constantly, for 3-4 minutes, or until the mixture thickens slightly.
Stir in the parsley, green onions, garlic, hot sauce and oysters. Bring to a boil and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until the oysters cook through and their edges curl.
Remove from heat. Garnish with chopped parsley, small chips of extra butter (if desired), chili flakes and a dash of sauce if desired. Don’t forget the crackers!

Linguine with Clams

Ingredients:
Kosher salt
1 pound linguine
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup finely chopped shallots, from 2 shallots
6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 cup dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc (see note)
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 pounds littleneck clams (40 to 45), scrubbed
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon lemon zest, from 1 lemon, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon lemon juice, from 1 lemon, plus more to taste

Directions:
In large pot over high heat, bring 4 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of kosher salt to a boil. Add the linguine and cook according to the package directions until just shy of al dente (the pasta should still be firm to the bite since it will cook another minute or two in the sauce).
Meanwhile, in a very large sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté until just golden, about 30 seconds. Add the wine, red pepper flakes, ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, clams, and ¼ cup of the parsley; bring to a simmer and cook, covered, until the clams open, 6 to 8 minutes. Discard any unopened clams.
Reserving ½ cup of the cooking water, drain the linguine in a colander (do not rinse). Add the pasta to the sauté pan with the clams. (If you don’t have room for everything in one pan, transfer the clams to a plate and cover to keep warm. When ready to serve, add them back to the pasta on a serving platter). Increase the heat to medium and cook the linguini with the clams, tossing occasionally, until the pasta absorbs most of the sauce and is just tender, 1 to 2 minutes. If necessary, add some of reserved cooking water to keep moist. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the butter, lemon zest, lemon juice, and the remaining 2 tablespoons of parsley; toss to coat. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt, lemon zest and/or lemon juice, if necessary. Transfer to a serving dish or bowls and serve.
Note: When cooking with wine, select a bottle that is inexpensive (under $10) but still good enough to drink. Avoid “cooking wines,” which are salty and include additives.

Black Drum Amandine with Crabmeat

Ingredients:
8 (4 – 6 oz.) fillets of black drum, skin removed
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tbsp. Cajun seasoning
1 cup half-and-half
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 sticks unsalted butter
3/4 cup sliced almonds
1 tbsp. finely minced garlic
1/2 lemon, juiced
1/2 lemon, zested
1 lb fresh jumbo lump crab meat
2 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley
4 lemon wedges

Directions:
Remove the fish fillets to a cutting board and inspect them carefully, removing any small bones. Place them in a covered container and refrigerate.
In a shallow container, add the flour and Cajun seasoning, and blend together.
In a shallow container, add the half and half.
Remove the fish fillets and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Place the fillets in the half and half and then add to the seasoned flour. Roll them to coat on both sides.
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the stick of butter. Shake any excess flour off each fillet and place in the hot skillet being careful not to crowd the pan. Sauté the fillets until browned on both sides, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove to a platter and keep warm. Repeat until all the fish is cooked.
In the same skillet on low heat, add the remaining stick of butter along with the almonds. Stir the mixture careful and watch as both the almonds and the butter begin to brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Turn the heat off and add the garlic along with the lemon juice and lemon zest. Stir the sauce mixture as it continues to cook and then pour over the fish fillets.
Wipe the pan clean using paper towel and place the pan on low heat. Add the crab meat along with the chopped parsley and being careful not to break up the lumps, gently toss until warmed through, about 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat.
For plating, place two sautéed fish fillets in the center of the plate and spoon over the almond butter sauce. Top with a portion of the crab meat and serve with a lemon wedge on the side.
Notes:
I urge you to find black drum for this dish, but if you must, any white flaky fish fillet (flounder or trout) will work. Most crab meat is clean of any shell pieces, but always inspect it before serving. Your guests will appreciate the attention to detail. Go upscale and use fresh quality butter in this dish, not the run-of-the-mill variety. Be sure to use the sliced almonds rather than slivered. There is a big difference in how the almonds will brown in this dish.

Pan-Seared Rockfish with Brown Butter Sauce

Ingredients:
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1 small shallot
1/4 bunch fresh parsley
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 pound rockfish fillets
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons neutral oil, such as canola
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Directions:
Cut 4 tablespoons unsalted butter into cubes. Finely chop 1 small shallot until you have 2 tablespoons shallot. Pick and finely chop the leaves from 1/4 bunch fresh parsley until you have 2 tablespoons. Measure and have ready 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika.
Place 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour and 2 tablespoons cornstarch in a pie plate or shallow bowl and stir to combine. Pat 1 pound rockfish fillets dry with paper towels. Cut crosswise into 4-ounce portions if needed. Season all over with 1 teaspoon of the kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the black pepper. Dredge the fish in the flour mixture, patting off any excess. Place on a plate.
Heat 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons neutral oil in a large nonstick or cast iron skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Carefully add the fish and cook until browned on bottom and they release easily from the pan, about 3 minutes. Flip the fish and cook until cooked through and easily flaking at the thickest part, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a clean plate.
Reduce the heat to medium. Add the butter and stir to help butter melt evenly, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. When the butter starts to smell nutty and turn brown, after about 30 seconds, reduce the heat to low and immediately add the shallot, smoked paprika, and a pinch of kosher salt. Cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan until the shallot softens and is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the sherry vinegar and cook until the strong vinegar scent has cooked off, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Taste and season with more kosher salt and black pepper as needed.
Pour the sauce over the fish, taking care to scrape the bits from the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle with the parsley.

Grilled Vegetable & Swordfish Kebabs

Ingredients:
1/2 cup olive oil, plus more for oiling the grill grates
1 tablespoon grated garlic
1 tablespoon grated ginger
Zest of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds swordfish, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 to 6 mini bell peppers of varying colors
1 medium red onion, cut into 1-inch pieces, ends kept on
1 medium zucchini, cut into 3/4” thick rounds
1 cup cherry tomatoes

Garlic Aioli:
Juice of 1 lemon
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
1/2 teaspoon hot sauce
8 pieces of pita toasted on the grill
Chopped fresh cilantro and parsley, for garnish

Directions:
Special equipment: 10 (12-inch) metal or wooden skewers
For the Kebabs: Whisk together the olive oil, garlic, ginger, lemon zest and some salt and pepper in a small bowl. Put the swordfish in a large bowl. Put the peppers, onions, zucchini and tomatoes in another large bowl. Evenly divide the olive oil mixture between the two bowls and toss to coat. Cover and let marinate for about 30 minutes to 1 hour at room temperature.
For the Garlic Aioli: Meanwhile, whisk together the lemon juice, mayonnaise, cilantro, parsley, garlic, mustard, vinegar and hot sauce in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
When the fish and vegetables are ready, preheat a grill over medium-high heat. (If using wooden skewers, soak in water for at least 30 minutes before grilling.)
Meanwhile, thread the swordfish onto six 12-inch skewers. Thread the peppers, onions, zucchini and tomatoes onto individual skewers.
Brush the grill grates with oil. Place the kebabs on the grill, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and grill until lightly charred and grill-marked and the swordfish is cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes per side.
To serve, spread 1 to 2 teaspoons of garlic aioli on top of each pita. Place the swordfish and vegetables on top, drizzle with more garlic aioli, and sprinkle with cilantro and parsley. §

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