Article by Bill Pino
An Island Less Traveled
The Rosa Blanca Bank was firing off as we approached. We watched with anticipation as birds were torpedoing into the ocean, diving out of site to find their prey. There were Booby birds, Frigates, gulls, albatrosses and numerous others, all gorging on sardines. We observed sea lions and striped marlin balling sardines for their breakfast. The spread was set when I spotted three towering dorsal fins a few hundred yards
away.
“ORCAS! 300 yards at 11:00 o’clock, go to the Orcas!” I shouted. The crew giggled at me and put their eyes back on the spread.
“I’m serious, we never see Orcas.” Our mate shook his head and called the captain. “They want to see the Orcas,” he said.
The captain shook his head and laughed while he turned the wheel slightly to the left.
I tried to keep my eyes on the Orcas, but out of my peripheral vision, I spotted the quivering dorsal of a striped marlin behind the Squidnation Flippy Floppy teaser. Then another appeared on the right long. The left flat popped. Two more were fighting for theleft teaser, and my friend Kim bellowed, “I’m bit on the left long!”
We managed to hook a quad of striped marlin when I heard the captain call to the mate,
“Cut them all off, Bill wants to see the Orcas!”
We all got a good laugh at the thought. Then Carlos, our mate, put his hand on my shoulder and said, “Welcome to the Galápagos.”
The Galápagos Islands marlin trip is high on the list of the most remote places I’ve visited. It’s also one of the most rewarding. The Island chain is situated 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador. It’s known for its biodiversity and, of course, for inspiring Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution. The isolation of this volcanic archipelago has given rise to species not found anywhere else. The Galapagos giant tortoise, marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies are just a few of the animals that have evolved to thrive in this harsh environment.
We were visiting the Galápagos for a species of fish that pass through this nutrient-rich oasis on their pelagic voyage around the Pacific Ocean. This island chain hosts some of the largest striped marlin in great numbers from January through June. We typically fly from BWI, connecting in Miami for a flight to either Quito or Guayaquil, Ecuador. We chose to overnight in Quito, as it’s situated in the mountains and is rich in history and natural beauty. An overnight stay is mandatory due to the flight schedules to San Cristobal, Galápagos. I encourage spending an extra night to explore the city.
The next morning, we boarded a domestic carrier for a 2.5-hour flight to the islands. Hotel Katarma is about a five-minute, $2 taxi ride from the airport. This quaint, art-filled hotel offers simple, comfortable rooms with good A/C, hot water, Wi-Fi, cozy beds, and a pool. There are budget hostels and $600/night hotels also available to fit any budget or preference. Almost everything you need is walkable from the hotel. The malecón (seawall) is just a short walk from the hotel.
San Cristobal has a population of 6,000 and is one of only four inhabited islands in the Galápagos. It might be the safest fishing destination I’ve ever visited. It’s common to see kids playing in the streets at 10 p.m. Our closest encounter with danger was from an unruly sea lion standing his ground under a park bench, unwilling to vacate his napping spot. Most restaurants are located along the malecón, as well as souvenir shops, grocery stores, pharmacies and tour agencies. We found the food outstanding. There are sushi restaurants, pizza shops, local grills and seaside outdoor bistros to suit any palate.
There are about eight charter boats on the island. Most of the boats are comfortable, open-bulkhead, 38-foot Ecuadorian-made vessels with twin or triple outboards. The operation we fished has top-of-the-line Shimano tackle, from 25 lb stand-up outfits to 50 and 80 lb chair rods and fighting chairs. Our boat was also equipped with an LP dredge reel and Ledge Logic Dredge booms. Fishing is typically done with dead ballyhoo on pitch baits and lures on the longs. Our outfit also specializes in fly fishing for marlin. Jigging and popping are also popular with guests. There are plenty of yellowfin tuna, wahoo, and ground species to target. I typically prefer planning my trips myself and rarely use a tour operation, but for Galápagos Islands, I strongly recommend it. Javier Guevara, owner and operator of Ecuador Fly Fishing Tours, puts together custom packages for groups. His trips are all-inclusive, except for airfare, park entry fees, alcohol at dinner, and tips.
Aside from not having to worry about all the logistics, Javier is also a professional photographer and will be on the boat with your group. His videography and photography are absolutely fantastic. I have a top-10 list of fishing travel destinations that I will cover in a later issue, but suffice it to say, Galápagos stands at the top of that lofty list. I hope to see you on the Malecón one day. If you’re ready to take on this adventure, contact Javier Guevara at 630-877-2649 or [email protected].
