Article by Skylar Snead and Chris Taylor
A Different Taste of Assateague
Assateague Island might be known best for its wild ponies and windswept beaches, but for those of us who fish its waters and walk its flats, it’s also a place full of good eating—if you know what you’re looking for. The surf and bays around Maryland’s National Seashore offer up more than just the popular catches. There’s seafood here that many folks overlook, and with a little know-how, you can turn some of these lesser-known species into a fine meal.
Knobbed whelks wash up in the shallows and sometimes turn up in crab pots. Most beachgoers think they’re just big shells, but inside is firm, sweet meat that’s well worth the effort. You’ll want to boil them for a few minutes until the meat pulls free, then slice it thin and cook it low and slow—sautéed with butter, garlic and maybe a little white wine. Some folks tenderize it first and use it in chowder or fritters, similar to conch. It’s a traditional food along the coast, even if people don’t talk about it much anymore.
Also called Northern puffers, blowtoads are small, round fish that puff up when you catch them. They’re harmless and surprisingly good eating. Local fishermen have known this for years—clean them right, take off the skin, and you’re left with a little tail of meat that fries up beautifully. Lightly breaded and pan-fried, it’s tender, white, and mild—almost like scallops. It’s a favorite for kids and old-timers alike, and one of the better-kept secrets of the surf.
Too many folks catch stingrays or skates and toss them back, thinking they’re not worth the trouble. Truth is, the wings of both species are excellent if you clean them right. The meat is mild and firm, and you can cook it like any white fish. Skate wing, especially, is a staple in French kitchens, often pan-fried with butter and lemon. Those of you who know the local “ Mango” and have been lucky enough to sample his smoked stingray can contest to just how good this meat really is!
You don’t need a boat to catch a good mess of kingfish—just a rod, some bloodworms or squid, and a rising tide. These silvery little fish show up in summer and early fall, and they’re one of the best-eating fish in our waters. Fillet them or cook them whole, seasoned and grilled or pan-fried. They’ve got clean, flaky white meat and no strong flavor, which makes them great for tacos or a simple fish dinner with a little lemon and butter.
When someone lands a big black drum, they’re usually after the fillets. But the real treasure might just be the ribs—thick, meaty cuts near the front of the fish. A lot of folks throw this part away without knowing it can be marinated and grilled just like pork ribs. It takes a little time—a good marinade with something acidic helps—but once they’re cooked slow over coals, the flavor is rich and satisfying. Drum ribs are a good example of using the whole fish, something old-school watermen have always done.
Part of fishing and foraging on the Shore is knowing how to make the most of what you catch. Heads and bones can be turned into stock for chowders or stews. Whelk and crab shells can be composted or used in the garden. Even stingray cartilage can add body to homemade broth. Nothing needs to go to waste. It’s not just about respect for the animal—it’s about tradition, resourcefulness, and living close to the land and sea.
Assateague isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place that can feed you. From knobbed whelks in the shallows to blowtoads in the surf, from kingfish on the line to drum ribs on the grill, the waters here are full of good food. It takes some local knowledge and a bit of effort, but that’s part of the reward.
See you on the sand!
